Silicones are a family of lab-made ingredients derived from silica (the same stuff that makes up sand). They come in many shapes and forms—you’ll find them in everything from medicine to cooking utensils—but in the haircare world, there are three types:
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Water-soluble silicones
Non-soluble silicones
Evaporating silicones
The main reason? Silicones’ frizz-taming benefits are second to none. The power’s in the thin, protective coating they form around the hair cuticle to keep hydration locked in and humidity locked out.
That barrier is also heat-resistant, which helps to reduce heat damage from blow dryers and hot irons. Added benefits include color protection, fewer tangles, added shine and soft, silky strands. Overall, they make hair look healthier and feel more manageable, which is why they’re so common.
Since silicones form a barrier around the hair, the biggest concern is buildup. This is mainly an issue with non-soluble silicones, like dimethicone. Because this type of silicone is water-resistant, over time it can accumulate on the hair and leave a residue that blocks out good, nourishing products from penetrating strands. This can lead to #hairproblems like oiliness, dryness, dullness and scalp inflammation—hence the widespread wariness of silicone-based hair products. Though a good clarifying shampoo will generally do the trick, there’s still a risk of buildup if the product isn’t rinsed out thoroughly.
Water-soluble silicones rinse easily from the hair, so they’re much less likely to build up when used properly. Still, some people may prefer not to use any type of silicone because it’s a synthetic ingredient—although, from a scientific standpoint, synthetic ingredients are not inherently less safe or effective than natural ones.
Silicones are perfectly safe to use on your hair—there’s no question about that. However, depending on your hair type and goals, they could be the holy grail or Achilles’ heel in your routine.
People with coarse, dry, curly or frizz-prone hair will reap the most benefits from silicone-based formulas. They’re also fabulous to have on hand if you heat-style your hair. If you’ve got fine or thin strands, keep an eye on how they respond to silicone-based products. You may opt to use them less frequently (or not at all) if you notice that they make your locks feel heavy or oily.
As we’ve learned, not all silicones are created equal. If you want the shine-boosting, frizz-controlling benefits without the buildup concerns, stick to water-soluble silicones. (We use these in several of our conditioners and styling products. They’ve all been clinically tested and shown to rinse cleanly from the hair, even with sulfate-free shampoos.)
And, as with lots of things in life, moderation is the best policy. Using too much of any product, silicone-based or not, can lead to moisture-blocking buildup on the hair and scalp. Make sure you cleanse your mane regularly and thoroughly so it’s able to absorb all those amazing nutrients in your products.
That’s perfectly okay! There are plenty of great silicone-free products out there that still work shining, smoothing miracles, like our Moisture Repair regimen and Hair Oil.
For nearly 70 years, silicones have been invading our cosmetic formulas, becoming essential elements in the industry by providing a smooth feel and texture to many beauty products at a low price. But in reality, everything comes at a cost. In the case of silicones, it's the environment that pays.
This is precisely why, due to their petrochemical origin, silicones have banned from organic cosmetics since the beginnging of our label.
Want to know more about the silicones in your non-certified beauty products? Read this article to find out!
Silicones are inorganic polymers whose molecular structure is composed of silicon and oxygen, connected by siloxane bonds.
It is important to note that the terms "organic" and "inorganic" should not be confused with the English term "Organic," as in organic farming. These are entirely different concepts. A molecule is considered "organic" if it contains carbon atoms and "inorganic" if it does not, which has nothing to do with agriculture.
Silicones are compounds produced exclusively through chemical synthesis and do not occur naturally.
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Today, there are many derivatives within the silicone family, available in forms such as oils (volatile or non-volatile), elastomers, or resins.
In , the global annual production of silicones reached nearly 1.3 million tons! They are widely used in various sectors such as aerospace, automotive, construction, textiles, food, healthcare, and of course, cosmetics.
As cosmetic ingredients, silicones are primarily used in creams, lotions, lipsticks, and other products for their sensory properties and/or their hydrophobic nature (water-repellent).
They are also present in shampoos and conditioners for their ability to remain on the surface of the hair and skin.
If you check the INCI list, silicones can be recognized by different names such as CYCLOMETHICONE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, TRISILOXANE, DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL, AMINODIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONOL, DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, TRIMETHYSILOXYSILICATE, POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE.
Due to their very stable chemical structure, both biochemically and physically, silicones are considered "safe" for cosmetic use. They are neither irritating nor allergenic and are also considered non-comedogenic.
However, the safety of silicones is often questioned! For example, Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) has been banned since January 1, , by the European Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. / because it is strongly suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.
As for other silicones, current research does not specifically highlight harmful effects on your health.
Silicones are a disaster for the planet. Due to their non-biodegradability and the fact that some are classified as "Persistent, Bioaccumulative, and Toxic Substances," it would be better to stop their use in cosmetic ingredients, especially because today, there are alternatives available.
As mentioned earlier, the highly resistant chemical structure of silicones affects their biodegradability. In fact, silicones are very difficult to biodegrade, if not non-biodegradable altogether (the conditions for partial biodegradation are rarely in place).
Silicones in rinse-off health and beauty products (shampoos, shower gels, hair masks) inevitably end up in wastewater. A large portion of wastewater doesn’t even go through treatment centers but is discharged directly into nature.
As a result, silicones pollute the earth and oceans, posing a threat to biodiversity.
Even silicones that do make it to water treatment centers can seriously disrupt the methanization process, contaminating biogas which is used for industrial (heat), domestic (heating, hot water, cooking), or fuel (BioGNV) purposes.
Even worse than their near non-biodegradability, Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and Cyclohexasiloxane (D6) have had or will have their usage regulated because they are considered "Persistent, Bioaccumulative, and Toxic" (PBT) substances.
Thus, regulations already restrict Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) in rinse-off cosmetics to a maximum of 0.1%. The same regulation will be applied to silicone in leave-in products, as well as to Cyclohexasiloxane (D6) in both rinse-off and leave-in products in the coming years.
In short, silicones are a catastrophe for the environment. ????
Organic beauty products are able to offer pleasant sensory textures even without silicones. This is made possible by natural-origin alternatives!
Organic beauty brands formulate products with ingredients such as squalane, essential fatty acids (omega-3, omega-6), or plant-based esters like Avocado Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, and more.
So, will you be giving up silicones in your beauty routine?
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